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Friday, January 5, 2007

Nassau Contrast

We are here in Nassau getting a feel for life on the island where more than half of the population of the Bahamas lives. We had been warned about crime, but people seem friendly and even in the city, people greet you as they pass on the sidewalk with a good afternoon or happy new year. Yesterday we ventured over to the BASRA (Bahamas Air Sea Rescue Assoc) office and signed on as supporters. They are a volunteer service here and don't get government funding like our Coast Guard. From there we climbed over the hill past the Government House and found the Public Utilities Commission. This is where you can apply for or renew your Ham Radio License. They were very polite and professional. Met another cruiser there who told us what bus to catch back to the marina. Walked to the Straw Market hoping to find local crafts, but it was a place that mostly sells t-shirts and caters to the cruise ship crowd. The area around the cruise ship docks was much like the four ports we stopped at on our Carribbean cruise last Spring. Same shops and restaurants. Took the bus back and that was an experience. All the buses are private and each operator chooses the music that they play. Ours liked loud reggae. Bus fares were only $1, so it is the way to get around the city. Traffic is "exciting" as there are very few traffic lights, narrow streets and lots of cars. Also took the time to really clean the salt off the boat since we may not get another opportunity right away and we are paying $10 a day for water.

Today we got up early to listen for weather and decided to stay another day. Overheard a group of cruisers on the radio planning a bus trip to the Bacardi Rum factory, so broke in and asked if we could join in. The factory was over half-way across the Island, so we got a good view of housing and shops along the way. Houses and lots are small and brightly colored. There is a wide range of conditions from tidy to dilapidated all in close proximity. The schools and parks along the way looked neat and new. Our bus driver had never been on the Bacardi tour, so he came along. We went into a warehouse where the age the rum in oak barrels for 5-12 years. They buy the barrels from Jack Daniels, so they have already been aged with a batch of whiskey in Kentucky. Kids weren't aloud in the warehouse as the fumes were VERY strong. The biggest danger is of explosion. The Bacardis moved here from Cuba in the fifties when Castro took over. Castro got the factory, but not the recipes.  There was an open bar with samples of all the rums they make at the end of the tour. People were friendlier and sillier on the return trip. On the way back, the bus driver stopped at a little stand in a residential neighborhood, jumped out and brought back a Coconut pastry that he passed around for us to try. Beth, who doesn't like coconut even liked it. The 18 of us bought out the supply! For lunch we walked over to Potters Cay where the locals eat and the fisherman come in. Watched the preparation of conch salad. This was our first experience with this delicacy. Fresh conch pulled out of the shell mixed with cucumber, onions, green peppers, green tomatoes and soaked with fresh squeezed lime and orange juices. Quite a bit of work to prepare and very delicious. While waiting we watched the locals play checkers with gusto. Pieces are slammed down as they play. Noah enjoyed watching this. Noah also was given a tour of the cay stands with an experienced cruiser. He came back with a balloon animal, a lemon, a tangarine and a brownie decorated like a domino that he bought with his own money to give to Beth. We also saw a guy pushing a shopping cart with coconuts in it. When he got a buyer, he would use a machette to chop through the hull at one end to make a hole to get the milk out, then the buyer would either drink right out of the coconut, or bum a straw from another vendor. They were not neatly cut in half like on Gilligan's Island! After arriving back at the boat, and relaxing after our day's adventures, we were treated to a brief but spectacular fireworks display right over Paradise Island, which is right across the narrow Nassau harbor.


We will probably leave here tomorrow and go to Rose Island or Highborn Cay. Need to get used to reading the water and looking out for coral heads. It is SOOO nice to be able to see through the water. Even here in the middle of the commercial harbor the water is clear so we can see the litter at the bottom.



Tasting Room at Bacardi Distillery

A Happy Crew

Making Fresh Conch Salad

Power Checkers

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